The Power of the Pivot, Part 1

WWU Communications sat down with Jesa Chiro, a graduate of Fairhaven College of Interdisciplinary Studies at Western Washington University to talk business, process and possibility. Chiro is a fashion designer, stylist and the founder of Coco Cultr, a sustainable brand recently highlighted in Vogue for its innovative, upcycled jersey dress designs — a fresh take on women’s sportswear.

Chiro has collaborated with brands like Nike and Procell. Her collections explore modern femininity through sport-inspired streetwear. 

The Seattle Academy alum is coming home to Seattle Oct. 1 and 2, where she’ll debut new T-shirt designs with New York airbrusher Atticus Torre’s pop-up. Stay informed about this collab @cococultr on Instagram. 

WWU: What were your goals going into college? Did you know you’d end up here?

JESA CHIRO: Going into college, I wanted to be a senator. But I took a poli sci class, and it wasn’t for me. Then I thought about engineering. I loved the coursework, but the environment really wasn’t right for me. So I pivoted. 

As a sophomore, I applied to the graphic design program at WWU. I worked really hard to get my portfolio together. But I think only 10 - 12 students a year get into that program, and I wasn’t one of them. 

I didn’t let that get me down. I just asked myself, Ok, what do I do here? Then I pivoted again. I’m always pivoting. 

That’s when I found Fairhaven! Going to Fairhaven and creating my own major was the best decision I’ve ever made. 

I met Professor John Bower there, and he believed in me from the beginning, which was so amazing. I told him my plan to move to New York and complete a year-long independent study, and that was that! 

WWU: How did Coco Cultr come about? 

CHIRO: As a kid, I didn’t just want to make things with my hands, I was also very entrepreneurial — I took my lemonade stands very seriously. I called my first company Lemonz and fantasized a lot about designing all the merchandise and how the store would look.

I started my brand Coco Cultr as a freshman at WWU in June 2020. We made clay and resin earrings. That was cool, but I always wanted to get into clothing, so in November and December 2020, I dropped screen-printed sweatshirts and T-shirts — another great pivot! 

In February of 2021, I bought my first sewing machine as a birthday present to myself. I had always wanted one, and I don’t know why I didn’t get one sooner. I was immediately hooked and started sewing every single day. 

WWU: How did Fairhaven prepare you for the kind of success you’re experiencing right now? 

CHIRO: Having a mentor who believes in you is the difference between night and day. John and I have talked really openly about fashion and branding, and he’s like, “I don’t know anything about fashion. But I’m really here to support your vision and your dream. And we’re gonna make it happen if you want to make it happen.” 

I wouldn’t be in New York without the Carten Family Scholarship awarded to entrepreneurial and innovative Fairhaven students. And I wouldn’t be here without John Bower’s support. His determination and belief in me — it is so special to have somebody say, I believe you. I support you. Let’s make this happen. It’s the whole world, you know? And it’s surprisingly rare.  

There are a lot of kids in college, and you can get lost. Fairhaven’s a smaller college, which I’m so grateful for. To be in that tight-knit community and to be seen and fully supported made all the difference. 

So that’s a big blessing.

I remember when I got the call about receiving the Carten Family Scholarship for a second year in a row. I remember where I was and what song I was listening to — I started crying when I realized I’d be able to move to New York. Oh my God, I am able to do it! Like, it was such a moment for me, and I’m very grateful for that. 

WWU: Do you remember the first thing you made with your sewing machine?

CHIRO: I think it was a bra top and shorts. It was either that little set or an early purse I made. Whatever it was, it sold. 

I would sew something and put it on, and people loved it and wanted to know where to buy it. Then boom! Photo on Instagram. Sold! 

I love making the clothes, but I also love sharing my designs, doing the photo shoots and working with models and photographers to create a whole world. Now I’m able to create a Coco universe — my own world.  

WWU: Have you had a steady uptick in sales and publicity since Coco Cultr’s beginning?

CHIRO: It’s interesting because 2020, the year I started the brand, was a really big year for me, revenue-wise. I was doing T-shirts and earrings, and they would always sell out. But when I’m selling a one-of-one, that’s a little less revenue.

Nothing is constant. Through running my business, I learned that trying to please others isn’t where it’s at. For a short time in 2021, I was designing what I thought the Coco girl would want. I don’t want to say it was unfulfilling — I still liked it — but I noticed that when I’m designing for myself, somehow it just does so much better. 

So, no. It has not been constant. And of course, with this Vogue article, there’s been a big boom for my business. But last summer was the time I really started to focus on Coco Cultr and the world I want to create. 

Since then, a lot of opportunities have come my way. I did a workshop and collab with Nike in February with my brand, which was really awesome. It’s nice to be seen for the hard work that I’m putting in. 

There are moments where I feel very hard on myself, like I’m not doing enough. But in this moment, I’m really proud of all the things that I’ve been able to do and continue to do.

I have something really exciting coming out the first week of October in Seattle! I’ve never sold in Seattle before, so I’m really excited to come back home. 

Read Part 2 of WWU's interview with Jesa Chiro, founder of Coco Cultr, here.

Learn more about designing your own education at WWU's Fairhaven College of Interdisciplinary Studies here. 

Allie Spikes covers the WWU Graduate School and Fairhaven College of Interdisciplinary Studies for University Communications. Reach out to her with story ideas at spikesa@wwu.edu.